Celebrating in Ahmedabad
The different huts, where many notable people once resided are still in good shape. At the heart of the Ashram is Hriday Kunj, where Gandhiji lived when he resided at Sabarmati. The cottage gives an insight into the life of the great man. His frugality and simplicity is reflected in the spartan cottage. On display is his charkha, the spinning wheel, which symbolised one of his greatest philosophies – self-sustenance. Don’t miss the Gandhi Museum, which depicts the Mahatma’s life in great detail. The library at the museum is mind-boggling – over 30,000 titles and manuscripts are housed here! Instead of rushing back to the city, we tarried in the Ashram, loathe to leave its calmness, for the world that awaited outside. The pensive atmosphere of the Ashram had subdued me and I contemplated on the lives that had paved the way for independence of our nation. I picked up a copy of Gandhiji’s autobiography, ‘The story of my experiments with truth’ at the bookshop in the Ashram. For lunch, we decided to go ‘Toran’ dining hall. It has traditional Gujarati thali, coupled with refreshing drinks. The service is prompt and the food includes traditional items like kachumbar, papad, khandvi, dhokla and basundi.
The next day was reserved for the city of Ahmedabad. First, we headed over to the Calico museum of textiles. It is the foremost museum of textiles. I was not very enthused – the idea of different types of clothes pinned up on walls did not appeal to me much, but since my sister put her foot down, we procured the tickets. The museum is located on the stunning Sarabhai property.
But the visit, I must admit, was a revelation. My sister, ever the fashionista, was mesmerised by the sheer array of textiles on display. I was fascinated by the colours, the variety, and the types of fabric. Hand-woven, tie-dye, block-print, spun, printed, painted – you name it and it was there! On display were clothes made for the British and the royals, Mughal tents and carpets, traditional works like Kalamkari and Madhubani. A koi pond, mosaics, and cool marble floors added to its elegance. This museum is a must visit, if you are enthralled with clothes and fabrics.
The next stop on the itinerary was the city museum, which is notable for its collection of kites. Gujarat is obsessed with kites. As Makar Sankranti, a festival that marks the Sun’s transition into the northern hemisphere draws closer, the streets are filled with kites of all shapes, sizes, and colours. The January skies are dotted with a riot of colours as all the kites soar in the sky. The people participate in this sport with utter abandon. You won’t find people in their offices or houses on Makar Sankranti – they all congregate on their roofs to fly kites! They all vie to cut off each other’s manja, the glass-rubbed thread attached to the kite, and reign supreme in the skies. Young and old, all participate wholeheartedly in this festival. People continue to compete with each well other into the night, by attaching a paper lantern, called ‘tukkal’ to their kites. Special kite markets come up in the city during the festival, where kites, manja, and everything related to the festival is sold. On the night before Makar Sankranti the streets are chock a bloc with kite enthusiasts and you will need the skill of persuasion to purchase even a single thread.
Navaratri produces the same fervour amongst Gujaratis as the celebration of Makar Sankranti. Though celebrated throughout the country, Gujarat manages to bring a special touch to the Navaratri festivities that is purely its own. The festival celebrates the defeat of Mahishasura at the hands of Goddess Durga. Navaratri is a melting pot of culture, where differences between communities and classes vanish. Ahmedabad unites as the people come together to worship the divine mother. The nine days of the festival are pure revelry and celebration.
While the days are full of worship of the Goddess Durga, the nights come to life with garba, the traditional dance of the state. People dressed in their finery throng these events to dance the night away. Women wear ghagras – long skirts embellished with mirrors, sequins, stones, and embroidery. They pair it with waist length blouses, which can have bare backs. A dupatta completes the ensemble. Men don the traditional attire, consisting of a short kurta, ‘kediyu’ with cotton trousers that are called as ‘chorno’. These come in rich vibrant colours. Men may also choose to wear dhoti with long shirts, or ‘kafani’. Often, they wear a bright, thickly folded turban, called as ‘phento’.
The enthusiasm in the air is enough to put a smile on everyone’s face. Derived from the Sanskrit term ‘garbha deep’ which refers to a clay lantern, garba is the metaphor for the cosmic energy and the perpetual cycle of life and death. Raas, another traditional dance is based on the Gopis captivated by Lord Krishna and the mellifluous notes of his flute.
Despite being a traditional festival, Navaratri is rooted in the contemporary. It is not unusual to hear the beats of Bollywood songs, with a bit of techo thrown in for good measure, along with the Gujarati folk songs at garba events. Some of the exclusive events may play hosts to Bollywood stars, who come to promote their films and participate in the celebrations. Sequins, glitter, and mirrors flash as the dancers sway and whirl, and the party becomes a celebration of colours, along with the triumph of good over evil.
Ahmedabad is full of colour and life. From the kites that colour the sky to the sway of the dancers in Navaratri, the city managed to captivate me. I will definitely be happy to spend another month in Gujarat, to understand the local customs, play dandiya late into the night, fly a kite in the clear blue skies and explore Gujarat’s numerous treasures, apart from the gem that is Ahmedabad.
[Image credits: Wikimedia commons, flickriver.com and filmedit.blogspot.com]
