Discovering Delhi – IV

The dawn had broken out, but the world was still asleep. The slight nip in the air was quite refreshing, but I was still wrapped in a sweater. I had been told that the gates generally opened quite early in the morning, and I could see a few people like me, who were eager to go explore the tomb.

Located on the banks of the Yamuna river, Humayun’s tomb is a marvellous piece of architecture. Humayun was the second Mughal emperor, son of Babar and father to the great king, Akbar. His tomb is the first garden-tomb in the Indian subcontinent. Though the gardens today do not have the same splendour as in the past, they still are quite beautiful. Built in a quadrilateral shape, they have pools that are joined by water channels, which divide the pathways, creating smaller squares. The persian gardens are believed to be based on the Garden of Paradise. I sat on the green carpet, and gazed at the large, stately red mausoleum. It had been called a masculine equivalent of Taj Mahal by the historian Laura Syke. I could see what she meant – though the tomb is reminiscent of Taj Mahal, milky-white monument to love, but the dark red exterior, coupled with the dramatic dome of Humayun’s tomb is quite compelling. The tomb was later used for the burial of various members of the ruling family – more than 100 graves lie here, and it has been described as the ‘necropolis of the Mughal dynasty’.

The tomb of Humayun, was built by his widow, Biga Begum 14 years after his death, and was designed by the Persian architect, Mirak Mirza Ghiyath. A landmark in Mughal architecture, it set the tone for grandiose memorials and use of red sandstone in large scale construction. Taj Mahal is believed to have been inspired from this tomb, which was, in turn, based on the tomb of Timur, an ancestor of the Mughals, which is located in Samarkand. The tomb itself is quite impressive. Like Taj Mahal, it is also set on a platform, which has small arches along its sides. It has a ‘double layered’ dome, with white marble on the outside, which presents a stunning contrast to the red of the rest of the structure. The Persian style of the tomb has also embraced elements of Indian architecture, like ‘chhatris’, which crown the structure. From the terraced platform of the tomb, I could see Jama Masjid and Qutub minar in the distance.

The last Mughal emperor, Bahadur Shah Zafar has sought refuge in Humayun’s tomb after British quelled the uprising of 1857. Armed forces of the East India Company laid siege to the monument, compelling Zafar to surrender.

I walked along the enclosure, observing the numerous other structures present at the Humayun tomb complex. One of the other famous building here, is Nai-ki-gumbad, which was presumably erected in memory of Humayun’s barber. Do not miss Isa Khan’s tomb, who was an Afgan noble in Sher Shah Suri’s court. The tomb, octagonal in design is placed in an octagonal garden and decorated with glazed tiles of various colours. To the west of the tomb is a red sandstone mosque, built in grey stone and decorated with an inlay of coloured tiles.

I walked on to the Lodi Garden, located a few kilometres from Humayun’s tomb complex. Spread over a huge area, Lodi garden houses many ancient monuments and tombs that have been well-preserved for centuries. The tomb of Muhammed Shah, third ruler of the Sayyid dynasty lies here. It is octagonal, surrounded by an arcade. Octagonal shape was mostly reserved for royal tombs while the square tombs were for high ranking members of the society. The tomb is crowned by a central dome, which is surrounded by eight ‘chhatris’. In the middle of the garden is ‘Bara Gumbad’, a large domed structure. Together with a Friday mosque and mehman khana, or a guest house, it is located on a raised platform. The first full dome in Delhi, Bara Gumbad is believed to have been completed in 1490. It is a gateway to the Friday mosque. Opposite to the Bara Gumbad is the ‘Sheesh gumbad’, a dome stopped structure, which used glazed tiles in construction.

I learnt that the INTACH (Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage), an NGO conducted heritage walks around the Lodi Garden. I made a mental note to sign up for one the next time I would be here.

I had heard a lot about a cafe in Delhi that holds a special place in the heart of every traveller. Kunzum Travel cafe is known to every traveller worth his salt. The brainchild of blogger and traveller, Ajay Jain, it is a wonderful place to make friends, learn new things or just surf the internet. It functions on the pay-as-you-like, principle, where the patrons are welcome to the various types of tea and coffee served, and can pay as they see fit when leaving. Framed photographs were displayed on the walls, and stacks of books and magazines on travel were available for perusal. Comfy cane chairs and well-worn coffee tables added charm to this quaint cafe. I stopped for a cup of well brewed coffee and chatted with a couple of guys, who were excited to tell me about their travel plans and eager about mine.

No visit to Delhi is complete without the Lotus Temple. One of the prime temples of the Bahá’í Faith, the flower-like structure is a must visit. Composed of twenty-seven petals, the temple is an architectural marvel. A long path, flanked by well-manicured gardens led to the white structure. Bahá’í faith is monotheistic, and believes in united spirituality of all humankind. Hence there are no altars or pulpits. The temple is open to all religions and according to its laws, no ritualistic practices or sermons can be conducted inside. I was really impressed by this simplistic, elegant temple. Its serenity was profound – there were no rules, no regulations that one generally associates with the religions and everyone was welcome.

I finished the day with a sumptuous meal at Yeti, a restaurant located near the Kunzum travel cafe. The crowd is noisy, loud, and young while the food is an eclectic mix of Tibetan and North-eastern cuisine. The walls were white, with exposed bricks; brightly coloured knick-knacks livened up the atmosphere. I would recommend making a reservation, because the place is very popular. Try the Wai Wai noodles and Bhutun, which is stir-fried offal. Fork you, another restaurant in Hauz Khas village is also a great option. It is renowned for its scrumptious burgers and an amazing bar area, where you can make your own cocktails.

Though my stay in Delhi was drawing to an end, I was still roaming its streets and visiting its ancient monuments, and modern structures. Delhi is the true melting pot of India, where different cultures from the country have amalgamated to form a place that is unique in its charm. Far from being esoteric, Delhi promises to embrace people from all walks of life. Delhi was not an easy city to understand. But once I began solving its mysteries, I was hooked. And for that alone, I knew I would be going there soon.

Image credits: Wikimedia commons, Gaurav Srivastava, Aadiil Jamal and Rajiv Kumar