Goa
Goa is the place of good times. Once the haven of hippies, Goa has changed considerably across the ages. But at heart, it still remains the languid land of liberty, where every sunset used to be greeted with applause, and the nights would be lit up by bonfires and forgotten songs. It is a land of chaos, where ancient history melds easily with modernity, and the laid back, easygoing people take everything in their stride.One of the oldest references to Goa can be found in Mahabharata, where it is referred to as ‘Goparashtra’, or ‘a nation of cowherds or nomadic tribes’. Goa has been patronised by international visitors from ancient times. The Greeks, Arabs, and Persians had trade relations with the region. But none of those foreign civilizations left an impression on Goa, as indelible as the Portuguese. The Lusitanian air of the present day Goa is a testament to this fact.Vasco Da Gama, a Portuguese explorer reached the Indian shores at the dusk of the thirteenth century. His countrymen followed the intrepid adventurer, and soon established a colony in Goa. Goa flourished under the Portuguese rule, and became the crowning jewel of Portugal’s eastern empire. In fact, a proverb of the seventeenth century said that whoever has seen Goa need not see Lisbon, the capital of Portugal. After India became independent, the demand for Goa’s independence from the Portuguese rule reached a crescendo. A military operation was launched to reclaim the territories that had been conquered by the Portuguese, which resulted into the integration of Goa, Daman, and Diu, into the state of India.
In the early 1960s, beatniks and hippies, who were travelling across Asia stumbled into Goa, an abode of tranquility, where time was not considered pedantically, in seconds or minutes, but by the languid movement of the sea and the journey of the sun across the sky. Goan beaches soon became favourites with the hippie movement, and people from all over the world travelled to Goa, in search of inner peace and happiness. Goa welcomed the bohemian culture with open arms. The result was a charming mix that we still find in today’s Goa. Edifices with the trademark Portuguese architectural styles stand side by side with the traditional Konkani buildings. Tall, green palms line bright red roads. Graffiti, often thought provoking and surprisingly insightful, is painted on whitewashed walls, and abandoned houses stand next to the serene sea.The houses in Goa are quite different than those found in the rest of the country. A unique architectural style has been developed in Goa, which marries the Portuguese influences with the Indian traditions, to give rise to distinctive, quaint houses that echo with the grandeur of the past. One of the best places to take in this facet of Goa is Fontainhas, in Panaji. The old quarter of Panaji is filled with crumbling villas, brightly coloured buildings, and narrow alleys. Window boxes filled with flowers in a riot of colours, old cycles reclining against whitewashed walls, the odd drift of an ancient tune, the smell of fresh bread, and the toll of the church bells – Fontainhas is magical! It is akin to stepping back in history.Just like the delightful medley of architecture, Goan culture is a mix of the old and the new, occidental and oriental, and a bit of hippie thrown in for good measure.
Goan people are mellow, fun loving and quite peaceful. Despite the religious and communal diversity, the people live in harmony. The people of Goa are irrevocably in love with football, and music. It is not uncommon to see lone guys or girls strumming their guitars, or the village folks singing a ditty when hauling in the fish, or the catch of the day. It is also the place where ‘Goa trance’ evolved. This form of electronic music gained prominence in the 80s, when Goa was home to many hippies. Goa’s electronic music scene has probably culminated into the Sunburn festival, an annual three day festival of electronic dance music, which is held at Candolim beach. What makes it special is the amazing laid-backness, which is in tune with its boho culture, and the who’s who of electronic music are often spotted at the festival, either playing or dancing. The rolling sea, sandy beach and the palm trees give an exotic air to this festival.
The traditional festivals of Goa are numerous. One of the most prominent is the Saptah festival, which is in honour of Lord Damodar, in Vasco. The procession associated with this festival is a lively affair, where the people dance in the rain, since the festival is held during the monsoon, and often, other people pour buckets of water on the dancers. Groups of devotees sing devotional hymns all night long, and the streets of Vasco acquire a festive look as stalls spring up on both sides, selling everything from clothes to toys, and religious keepsakes.
Sao Joao festival is also celebrated with the same fervour. Young men all over the State jump into wells, to retrieve the gifts thrown in by the villagers as a part of the celebration. People dance to the beats of the drums, have elaborate feasts and make merry. The spirit of Goa shines through during these festivities. The epicurean nature of the Goan people is amply demonstrated through the festivities.
Goan food is a delight for those who love sea food. The staple ingredients are, of course, rice and fish, but each community of Goa has its own special dishes, which are cooked during festivals and on special occasions. One of the beloved dishes of Goa is bebinca. This traditional pudding is made of as many as 16 layers, it is a traditional dessert. It is usually served at celebrations, like weddings, christenings and festivals like Christmas and Easter. Another renowned dish is Khatkhate, a vegetable stew that is generally cooked in the Hindu households of Goa. It is generally served with steamed rice on the side. Sorpotel has a Portuguese origin. It is a well-known meat dish, which is extremely delicious and flavourful. But no mention of Goan cuisine can be completed without the traditional liquor of Goa, feni. It is a fiery drink, made from cashew nuts or coconuts., and is now almost synonymous with Goa.
Goa is culturally heterogeneous, but at heart, it is unified. Its languorous air makes it one of the best places to spend a holiday. Robert Orben the American writer had once said that, ‘A vacation is having nothing to do and all day to do it in.’ And Goa is a place that exemplifies it!
Image credits: Wikimedia commons – Andean Condor, Dominik Hundhammer, Enygmatic-Halcyon, Mike Lehmann and Mike Switzerland, Warren Noroha
