How I got Leh – d – II
Located about five hours from Leh, Pangong Tso is a beautiful lake that remains permanently etched in the minds of all those who visit it. Two-thirds of the lake is in Tibet, which is occupied by China, while one-third is in India. The actual line of control passes through the lake, making it a sensitive region. The road to the lake passes through Chang la, one of the highest motorable mountain passes in the world. An inner line permit is required to visit the lake, which can be obtained at the DC’s office in Leh. It is advisable to keep multiple photocopies of the permit, since it is required to be shown at the various checkpoints.
Derived from the local words for, ‘narrow, enchanted lake’, Pangong Tso more than lives up to its name. You may perhaps remember it from the climax of the movie, 3 Idiots. The lake changes colour, according to the angle of the sun rays, from a deep turquoise to shimmering emerald green. A tapering land formation extends into the water, and the experience of standing at the tip, and watching the blue expanse, is quite ineffable. The lake is a photographer’s dream come true. After the first spell of utter enchantment, I started clicking away as if possessed. But even after hundreds of snaps, I remained convinced that the sheer magnificence of Ladakh cannot be adequately captured through the lens of a camera. To experience the mesmerizing play of the light on water, sunset and sunrise ate the best times. Camping is possible on the banks, but it is often dependent on the weather conditions. Homestays are available near the lake, which do not have many facilities, but are still perfectly adequate.
It is possible to visit Tso Moriri, another beautiful lake, from Pangong tso. Located in the secluded Rupshu Valley, Tso moriri is a lake of incomparable beauty. An inner line permit is required to reach the lake. Foreigners are, however, not allowed to go beyond the villages of Man-Merak, and hence need to take a longer, slightly indirect route to get to Tso moriri. Surrounded by mountains, it almost seems to challenge the sky with its brilliant blue hues. It is a brackish lake, from where the locals would extract salt till recent years. Homestays are available in Korzok village, which is situated on the banks of the lake.
About 15 kilometres from Leh is Shey monastery. Built around 1650 by King Deldan Namgyal, the place was first used as a summer retreat for the royalty, but now lies in ruins. Special permission is required to visit the monastery. A giant statue of Shakyamuni Buddha – the second largest in Ladakh – is located in the monastery. It is tall enough to cover three floors of the monastery, and has been gilded with gold.
Quite near Shey gompa is Thiksey monastery. It resembles Potala palace of Lhasa, Tibet. Located atop a hill, it is twelve storey complex. A large statue of Maitreya Buddha, or the future Buddha, is located in the monastery. A story about the monastery goes that, Sherab Zangpo, an important monk, and his disciple Palden Sherab were offering prayer services, with a ritual cake about three kilometer from where the Thiksey monastery is. A crow flew away with the cake. When they searched for the ritual cake, they found it at the top of a hillock. Believing it to be an auspicious sign, they built the monastery and named it ‘Thiksey’, which means ‘perfect order’, since the crow had placed the cake in perfect order. Morning prayers of the monks can be observed, and overnight stay is available in the monastery, or in homestays and hotels near the monastery.
One of the most beautiful places in Ladakh is Nubra valley. It is a surprising change after the arid locales of the area around Leh. Streaks of grass are spread across the valley like the smears from an artist’s brush – almost an afterthought, in view of the great mountains that surround it. Often called the ‘Orchard of Ladakh’, it has lush apricot plantations. In a stunning contrast against the hilly landscape are the sand dunes, near the small village of Hunder. Bactrian, or two humped camels are found here, and a ride on their backs is a must! The camels were used extensively as means of transport in the ancient times, when Ladakh lay in the middle of a trading route. The sand dunes were quite enjoyable, perhaps because they were seemingly incongruous. The administrative centre of Nubra valley is Diskit. It has a beautiful monastery, founded sometime in the 14th century. It is often considered to be a sub-gompa of Thiksey. It is believed that a Mongol demon was killed here, and his wrinkled head and hand still lie within the monastery. An imposing statue of the Maitreya Buddha is present in the monastery, and a larger one was built recently. Nubra valley is quite interesting and merits for a stay of at least 2 to 3 days. Though I wanted to stay some more, take that one last ride on the back of a camel, we were pressed for time. We returned to Leh, and drove back to Manali, bidding this land of monks and monasteries good-bye.
I found Ladakh to be utterly charming. In its still landscapes, silent lakes, and large mountains, a wonderful peace is to be found. Despite the harsh conditions, the people of Ladakh live rich, fulfilling lives, that are full of song, dance, music, and joy. I want to go back to Ladakh soon, to sit on the banks of Pangong Tso, and meditate in the sands of Nubra Valley. Nothing else will do. Because after all there is no place like Ladakh.
Image credits: Wikimedia commons: Alin Dev (Pangong Tso), Prabhu (Tso moriri), Shrikanth Hegde (Thikse monastery), John Hill (Bactrian camels), Raghavan V (Sand dunes in Nubra valley), Mufaddal Abdul Hussain (Stupas), Tim Dellman (Mountains near Tso Moriri)
