Udaipur
I was in Udaipur, which has often been called the Venice of the east, and not without reason. Udaipur is a city of lakes, blessed by an abundance that has made it one of the best cities in India. Udaipur was built by Maharana Udai Singh II in the 16th century. It remained one of the Rajput strongholds through the centuries, and now has been transformed into a lively, bustling city that mixes the old with the new in a charming fashion that is uniquely its own. Located at a distance of about six hours by road, from Jaipur, Udaipur is a vacationer’s paradise.
Udaipur has numerous lakes, but I found Lake Pichola to be the prettiest. It is an artificial lake, hemmed by grandiose palaces, and elegant temples. It also has two island palaces – Jag Niwas and Jag Mandir.
Jag Niwas is now a private hotel, known as ‘Lake Palace’, and is unfortunately closed to the public. But it is possible go for a boat ride on Pichola lake and view the palace in all its splendour. If you want the complete Udaipur experience, you can definitely make reservations at Lake Palace.
Jag Mandir Palace, as known as ‘Lake Garden Palace’, was owned by the Royal family of Udaipur, as a summer retreat. It is now open to the public and can be accessed by a boat from the banks of Lake Pichola. It is an impressive structure, built in yellow sandstone and marble. It had served as a sanctuary for Prince Khurram (who later became the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan), due to political intrigues at the Mughal court, because Khurram’s mother was a Hindu Rajput. It is said that he was so impressed with Jag Mandir, that he utilized several aspects of its architecture when constructing Taj Mahal.
I was particularly enchanted by ‘Gul Mahal’, which served as Prince Khurram’s family quarters. It is a yellow stone structure, crowned by a dome. A crescent was later affixed to its top, in honour of Prince Khurram’s religion. A black and white pattern is present through a large circular apartment that surrounds the Mahal, which is in a contrast with the Rajput tendency for colour and elaborate embellishment. Juxtaposed against the Rajasthani architecture, Gul Mahal, with its Islamic influences, seems quite striking and is an absolute must-visit.
Jag Mandir palace has extensive gardens, adorned with a plethora of beautiful flowering plants, including roses, sweet-smelling jasmine, frangipani trees, and cascading vines of bougainvillea. The courtyard in the garden is paved with black and white tiles, studded with fountains and pools and covered with walkways.
After exploring the palace, I made my way to ‘Darikhana’, an open terrace which has now been converted into a restaurant. It serves delicious Rajasthani cuisine.
Udaipur also has more than its fair share of Palaces. Perhaps the most beautiful is City Palace, which stands on the east bank of Lake Pichola. It is the largest palace complex in Rajasthan, constructed over a period of 300 years by different rulers. Eleven palaces make up this vast structure, and are connected with each other by low, narrow passageways, which has earned it the moniker of being a ‘city with a city’. The palace has now been reopened as a museum, to preserve and promote the Rajput heritage. Legend has that Maharana Udai Singh, was hunting and met a hermit meditating on top of a hill. When asked for a blessing, the hermit told Maharana to build a palace on the very spot. Built in yellow sandstone, and painted in white, the palace is a staggering work of beauty and architectural genius. I was particularly impressed by ‘Amar Vilas’, a pavilion built in the Mughal style. It is the highest point of the City palace, and is the gateway to ‘Badi Mahal’, a beautiful garden palace. It has flourishing trees, marble pools, luxuriously carved pillars and hanging gardens. Don’t miss Mor chowk, a stunning courtyard, constructed by Sajjan Singh in 1876. It has beautiful mosaics of a trio of peacocks, representing summer, monsoon and winter, made from coloured glasses and stones.
After thoroughly exploring City Palace, I was famished. I opted for Raas Leela, a restaurant situated on the bank of Lake Pichola, which had been highly recommended to me by friends. It serves a variety of cuisine, but I particularly enjoyed the continental dishes. Pushkar’s cafe, a restaurant located in the city can also be a good option. The food at Pushkar’s is scrumptious and the quiet elegance, coupled with the friendly and courteous staff cannot fail to charm.
My next jaunt took me to Sajjangarh fort, which is also known as Monsoon Palace. Situated to the west of the city, it is an imposing structure. You’ll probably remember it from the James Bond film, Octopussy. Built by Maharana Sajjan Singh, the fort overlooks Lake Pichola, and Udaipur city. The ground floor of the palace is dedicated to a museum, which houses various paintings and maps. Adorned with elaborate carvings, jharokhas, and exquisitely decorated pillars, the palace is extremely beautiful. It is encircled by Sajjangarh wildlife sanctuary, a thickly wooded forest with amazing wildlife.
My last stop was Kumbhalgarh fort, an ancient fortress nestled in the Aravali hills. Tall, serpentine walls of the fortress wind through the hilly terrain, punctuated only by imposing towers, that make the fort seem impregnable. The fortress is said to be the second largest continuous wall in the world, after the Great wall of China. Though nearly 700 years old, the wall is still strong, and in excellent shape. The fort has an interesting history. When Maharana Kumbhal was attempting to build the fort, he was advised that a voluntary human sacrifice would ensure that the fort would be built. Such a sacrifice was made, and a temple stands at the place, commemorating the volunteer. There are over 350 temples in Kumbhalgarh, each one utterly unique. Do visit Jhalia ka Malia, or the palace of Queen Jhalia. It is believed to be the birthplace of Maharana Pratap, the fearsome warrior whom history remembers even today.
I finished off my stay in Udaipur with one of my favourite hobbies – shopping. Jagdish temple street bazaar is renowned for its bustling shops with a huge array of local handicrafts. For fabrics and cloths, I found Ghanta Ghar market to be the best. It has lots of varieties of cloths, in all patterns and colors imaginable. I also picked up some copper handicrafts at the market near the Clock tower, one of Udaipur’s old landmarks.
Udaipur left me quite breathless with its natural beauty, the elegance of its palaces and the amazing local handicrafts. It is definitely a place that should be on everyone’s vacation list, and I can say that it definitely tops mine.
