Valley of Flowers : Paradise on Earth

“I will lift mine eyes unto the Hills

from whence cometh my help.”

I traced the words inscribed on the stone memorial. Beyond the white monument to the late botanist Margaret Legge, flowers spread away in all directions, a riot of colours that swayed slowly in the wind coming down from the mountain slopes. The crisp air stung my skin, and then soothed it as I shrugged away my bulky sweater and walked among the flowers, occasionally stopping to note down a particularly stunning specimen. The aroma of the valley was distinctive and potent, and I am sure that I have not smelt anything more pure or sweeter. In the distance, the stately, snow-capped peaks of the Nilgiri Parbat seemed to look down at us with a benevolent gaze.

My sister called to me from atop the large rock that stands in the Valley of Flowers. I joined her to take in the view of the valley. Watching the vibrant flowers, I could not help but feel that this must be the abode of Gods, the true heaven on earth – because the Valley of Flowers cannot be called anything but paradise.

In late summer of 2009, the sun was harsh and cooped up in the house, I was bored. I had already been to most of the forts near Pune and by then, I knew Sinhagad like the back of my palm. But still, the wanderlust would not fade. It was love at first sight when I came across an article on the Valley of Flowers in a magazine. The photos of this alpine valley were enough to tempt me, and by the end of the month, I had set off to see this place, this miracle of nature for myself.

Located in the Garhwal Himalayas, the Valley of flowers is a national park, located in the core area of the The Nanda Devi National Biosphere Reserve. It has been declared a heritage site, due to the amazing array of wildflowers that are endemic to the area. The history of the valley is similarly rich. Myths merge into facts when talking about this mystical homage to beauty. It is said that it was in these very mountains that Hanuman searched for the Sanjeevani. Fairies are believed to live in the valley, who make off with any human that strays into their world.

The valley was rediscovered by British mountaineers Frank Smythe, Eric Shipton and R.L. Holdswoth, who had lost their way while returning from an expedition to Mt. Kamet. Maragaret Legge, an eminent British botanist, slipped and fell to her death in the mountains while conducting a study in the valley. A cenotaph was erected in her honour in the valley by her sister.

The nearest airport to the Valley of Flowers is Delhi. A car journey can deposit one to the town of Joshimath. From Joshimath, however, it is an uphill task. The trek to the Valley starts at Govindmath, a small town located in the foothills. A stopover can be made at the Mana village. This part of the journey takes two to three days. Ghangria, the village nearest to the Valley is generally used as the base camp by trekkers as camping is not permitted in the Valley. Ghangria can be reached by trekking or atop a mule from Govindghat. There are many hotels and dormitories available in Ghangria, like Hotel Sri Nanda Lokpal Palace, Deepak Lodge or Krishna Palace. Alternatively, the Gurdwara at Ghangria offers free lodging and boarding.

The valley is at the pinnacle of beauty in July and August, when most of the species of wildflowers are in bloom. From a distance, it looks like a multi-hued, richly coloured carpet. The valley is also accessible in June and September, but not many flowers bloom in those months. The valley is home to many species of flowers, most notably, Brahmakamal, cobra lily, and the blue poppy. Himalayan animals like musk deers, bears, and the tailless rats are also found in the valley.

An additional trek to Hemkund can also be done. Hemkund Sahib is a gurdwara located on the banks of the Hemkund lake. A Lakshman temple is also situated next to it. The Hemkund lake is frozen for eight months of the year. When the snow melts, Sikhs come to bathe in it, for it is believed that Guru Govind Singh meditated there in a previous birth.

We went to the Valley in July. Taking a train from Pune to Delhi in the sweltering heat was no mean feat, but what came next was the real challenge. With a halt at Rishikesh, the journey to Govindghat was completed in a bus that wound through the curvy roads of the mountains. We finished off the day with a quick trek to the Mana village for an overnight stay. The mountain air had considerably slowed down the best of us, and no amount of trekking here in the Sahyadris could have prepared us adequately for the glory of the Himalayas. The next morning, we set off bright and early for Ghangria, the base camp. The trail wound through shaded forests with stunning views of the mountains and deep valleys far below. The terraced farms and small hamlets tucked in the trees were the only indicators of civilization. The trek to Ghangria was long and arduous, due to the steep incline and the lack of acclimatization to the climate.

After we reached Ghagria, we took a day to explore the beautiful surroundings, and acclimatize to the mountains. The next day, we set off to Hemkund Sahib, a gurudwara located on the banks of the Hemkund lake. It is a difficult, steep climb but the view from the gurdwara is spectacular.

The day after, we decided to go to the Valley of Flowers. After paying the entrance fee, we set off in groups into the national park.

After crossing the waterfall, we followed the trail into the forest. It inclined and narrowed, but by then, we had forgotten all our exertions. The serenity of the valley was spellbinding. We listened to the voices of the forest – the gentle tweeting of birds, the winds tiptoeing through the leaves, the babble of streams. We crossed the glacier and started up a steep incline. There was almost no conversation and the woods spoke for all of us, and except for the rhythmic crunch of soil under our sport shoes, there was blissful tranquility. The call of the valley was apparent in the surroundings long before we reached it. Multitudes of exotic, pretty wildflowers sprung from the soil, nodding in the slight wind and I felt they were urging us along.

After crossing an old bridge, I walked up a gentle slope and came to a stop, captivated. The valley was below, sloping gently and adorned with flowers of every colour imaginable. I walked around in a trance, touching the wildflowers to make sure that I was not dreaming. Beside the huge rock, located in the valley, I sank to my knees and watched the world. It was old, iridescent, beautiful.

We had to set off soon, for darkness came quickly to the valley. In the swish of the wind through the tall grass, I could hear the valley call out goodbye to us. I stood for a moment on  that rock, taking it all in, absorbing it forever.

That night, we sat beneath the starry sky on the terrace of our hotel in Ghangria. The stars were bright, alluring and the dark mountains cast their heavy spell even on the inky night. The cold was bitter and the wind was biting, unforgiving. I moved close to the bonfire the manager had built for us. The flames flickered uncertainly, casting shadows on the walls.

In my diary, I scribbled the day’s adventure. But how  does one write of feelings so moving, so ineffable? But I struggled and tussled with  words, trying to put down something that would remind me of this day forever.

I will be going back to the Valley soon. And I know, years from now, I will be looking at that old, weary page in my diary, and every perfect bloom of a wildflower will remind me of that day spent in the heaven on earth.

[Image Credits: Vikas Verma, Devkant Sangwan, Devkant Sangwan, Shayna Shah]