Exploring Ahmedabad

I ran my hand over the sandstone pillars, slightly awed by their grandeur. Intricate carvings and geometric floral designs were etched into the stone. Despite the afternoon heat outside, it was relatively cool inside. Sunlight streamed inside the well, lighting it up in a brilliant golden shade, but the narrow staircases, which led to the different levels, were dark. Parrots flitted around, vibrant green and red. Ignoring my sister, who had her finger glued to the camera button, I wandered through the passages, peering through the jharokhas, to get a feel of how the place would have looked hundreds of years ago.

The well appears like a medieval relic from the grand palaces of yore. But then, that is exactly what the Adalaj step well is. Situated scant miles from Ahmedabad, one of the most important cities in Gujarat, Adalaj is a must visit for all history lovers. Built by Queen Rudabai in the fifteenth century, the Adalaj step well, or wav, as it is called in Gujarati, provided solace to thirsty travellers, and caravans stopped here when they travelled on the trade routes. It became a place for the women to rest and gossip as they drew water from the well. In times of conflict, it became a hideout. Four storeys deep, it is a beautiful monument that marries the Islamic architectural styles and motifs with masterful Hindu craftsmanship. The rich carvings lend an opulent atmosphere to the well, making it an architectural marvel. Hindu deities, scenes from everyday life, and carvings of different animals are all immortalised in stone.

Like many other historical monuments, Adalaj is also rich with legends. One particular myth says that the well was built by a muslim ruler, Mohammed Begda. He attacked the neighbouring kingdom of Dandai Desh, which was ruled by Rana Veer Singh. The Rana perished in battle and Begda conquered his land. After hearing about the legendary beauty of the Rana’s wife, Rani Roopba, Mohammed Begda expressed his desire to marry her. She put down the condition that the well at Adalaj should be built before the wedding could take place. But after the well was completed, Rani Roopba jumped into the well, choosing a watery grave over marriage to Mohammed Begda.

The arid atmosphere of the surrounding area compelled me to consider the well akin to an oasis, because in the play of shadows and sunlight, the rejuvenating coolness of the well left me relaxed and comfortable. Adalaj well is a stunning example of history set in stone and I confess that never have I seen a more beautiful structure dedicated to the purpose of procuring water.

The shadows lengthened and as the day began to end, we started back to the city of Ahmedabad. Spread on both the sides of the Sabarmati River, Ahmedabad is a mix of the old and the new. It has a strong Muslim heritage which has merged with Hindu customs, leading to a cosmopolitan outlook, coupled with a quaint old world charm. As the night set in, we wandered through Ahmedabad’s streets. Nightlife in Gujarat is unique. Being a dry state, alcohol is not an accompaniment to the merrymaking that starts as the night falls. Instead, being great foodies, people of Ahmedabad stick to the streets. Roadside cafes pop up, with temporary seating of little tables and chairs. Hand carts of chaat, kulfi and snacks line up on the streets, peddling their food enthusiastically. Pani puri, bhel, fafda, farsaan, jalebi stalls stand next to those serving chinese fare and South Indian dosas and uttapams.

For those looking for an authentic meal in fine-dining settings, located in the House of MG, a heritage hotel, there is Agashiye, a celebrated restaurant in Ahmedabad. Meaning ‘terrace’ in Gujarati, Agashiye is spread over two terraces. It has a menu that changes every day and according to the season. There is almost always a sherbet to start the meal, savoury Gujarati pickles, multiple starters including the famed dhoklas, different types of rice and vegetables, and a gujarati dessert or delicious homemade ice cream to finish the meal off. In the winter season, ‘undhiyo’, a popular preparation, delicately flavored by mixing multiple vegetables, is served, much to the delight of the visiting guests and dignitaries. The ambience and food at Agashiye is unparalleled, which makes it a place not be missed. Another unique place in Ahmedabad is Seva cafe. It runs on the principle of ‘pay-it-forward’, where the patrons contribute by paying for future guests of the cafe. The food is simple but wholesome and the menu changes frequently. You can find Gujarati items like handvo or khichdi and buttermilk. The profits garnered are used for social service.

If you are in a mood for dancing, there are various discotheques (of course sans alcohol!). Of course, if you are inclined towards getting buzzed, there are many places in the city – like Comfort Inn President, where you can buy alcohol upon gaining a permit from the state. Locals often have a health permit to buy alcohol, but all visitors to the state, Indians and foreigners need a license. Temperature, a popular joint, has occasional live music. The food here is simply delicious and the amazing mocktails more than make up for the lack of alcohol. Rewind Disc, another disco almost always has live music. The crowd here is marvellous and very energetic. The people abandon themselves to the lively beat of the wonderful music. There are scrumptious appetizers available and a wide variety of drinks.

Ahmedabad is heaven for shopaholics. The Night Market at Law Garden opens in the evening and has a vast number of options. I could scarcely contain myself as I visited one stall after the other, bantering with the vendors non-stop. They parried with me as we began to bargain, and after striking up a deal, we parted as friends. I bought a dozen bangles in every colour of the rainbow, and traditional art prints to hang on my walls. Glittering bangles were heaped next to traditional jhumkas; bright wall hangings lay in heaps next to the richly decorated skirts and blouses that are worn by the local women. I chose the streets in favour of the upscale markets, but if you are in mood for some high-end stuff, head over to Hansiba, a not-for-profit outfit run by the prestigious NGO, SEWA. Handcrafted traditional apparel and fabrics can be bought here.

Enchanted with Ahmedabad, I could not wait for the next day to dawn. The Adalaj well had particularly impressed me. Coupled with the lively markets full of handcrafts and the street carts selling savoury food, I was eager to find out more about Ahmedabad. I was excited about tomorrow. The tranquility of the Sabarmati ashram, rich with history, and the Kite museum with its colourful display, beckoned. In the next post, I will continue to explore the rest of Ahmedabad, and learn what makes it so utterly unique. Stay tuned as I dance my way into the hearts of the fun loving people of this city.

[Image credits : Wikimedia commons, Agashiye restaurant and Jamie Furlong on The Guardian]