Agra chronicles
I stopped short, awed by the sheer magnificence of the monument in front of me. It was colossal, and in the early morning sun, it literally shone. I had always thought that the Taj Mahal was no big deal. Granted, it was currently one of the Seven Wonders of the World, and has been popularised as a monument dedicated to love, but I had seen it thousands of times. Wasn’t it the backdrop for many, many songs and movies? I had seen the souvenirs people brought back – miniature versions of the Taj, complete with little minarets.
But nothing can give as accurate an idea of Taj Mahal as the Taj Mahal itself. Visiting the monument is an unforgettable experience. I still remember walking through the large door and blinking at the structure, before muttering, “Wow…it’s beautiful.”
After my exciting exploration of Delhi, I had decided to make my way to Agra. Since Agra is quite close to Delhi, it is actually a perfect destination for a one day trip, or if you are so inclined, for an extended stay. The journey from Delhi to Agra takes barely three or four hours by road. My first stop was, undoubtedly Taj Mahal.
Rabindranath Tagore, a famous Bengali poet had once called it ‘a teardrop on the face of eternity’. For all its associations with romantic love, the story of Taj is quite melancholic. Shah Jahan, the Mughal Emperor was heartbroken, when his chief consort and wife, Mumtaz Mahal (which literally means, Chosen one of the Palace) died when giving birth to their 14th child. He aged centuries in a day, his hair turned grey and he sunk into an abyss of grief. In her memory, he decided to erect a monument, the likes of which the world had never seen before. Twenty thousand men laboured for nearly twenty years to build this beautiful structure. Marble was brought from Rajasthan, while semi-precious stones like lapis lazuli, turquoise, jade, crystal, coral and mother-of-pearl were sourced from all over the Asian continent. Shah Jahan was, however, overthrown by Aurangzeb, his son and was held captive in the fort of Agra. Legend has it that Shah Jahan planned to construct a black marble mausoleum, just like the Taj, across the Yamuna river. He is said to have spent his last few days in the Agra fort, from where he could gaze at Taj Mahal, the structure that immortalised him in history.
Taj Mahal stands in a traditional Mughal garden, which evokes the image of Paradise. Water channels divide the square into four smaller squares, while a large pool, which stands some distance away from the mausoleum shows the reflection of the Taj Mahal. Taj is set on a huge marble platform, and flanked by red sandstone buildings on two sides. It is a gigantic structure, crowned by a beautiful dome and surrounded by four minarets. It is decorated with passages from the Koran and inlaid with designs of flowers, vines, and fruits, of precious stones. The inside of the mausoleum does not disappoint. The marble cenotaphs of Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal, lie in the centre of the octagonal room and are surrounded by elaborate screens, which have calligraphy and inlays of precious stones. The true graves, as per Muslim tradition, lie in an underground crypt, where entry is prohibited.
Taj Mahal is a structure that you cannot get enough of. The first rays at dawn illuminate it, lending it a pale red glow. As the day progresses, the Taj changes colour – from dove grey to cream and brilliant white. It is also possible to see Taj Mahal by moonlight, on nights with full moon and two days before and after. Tickets can be purchased in advance at the Archaeological survey of India office. There is no sight like the Taj bathed in the soft, silvery moonlight. The shadows and darkness intensify against the silvery sheen that the marble acquires, making it seem unearthly.
But then, Agra is not only about Taj Mahal. I made my way to Agra fort, a marvellous structure that has been cast into shadow by the sheer beauty of Taj mahal. That is not, however a reflection on Agra fort itself. It is one of the finest Mughal forts, and was the capital of the Mughal empire for some time during Akbar’s reign. The fort is said to have housed hundreds of buildings. Some of them were destroyed by Shah Jahan, to procure stones when he was building the Taj. The British demolished many to make space for barracks and other buildings. Khas Mahal, Sheesh Mahal and Jahangiri Mahal are especially beautiful. Musamman Burj is a structure, where Shah Jahan is said to have been imprisoned during the final days of his life. Taj can be seen from here, and one can almost imagine the deposed Mughal emperor to have gazed upon the marble monument in the pensive silence of the night.
As the evening fell, I decided to treat myself to some delicious Mughlai food in Agra. Mughal Room, in the Clarks Shiraz hotel is an excellent restaurant, with continental, Mughal and Chinese cuisines. It also has live ghazal performances in the evenings, lending a royal air to its luxurious ambience. Another option is Bikanervala, a restaurant which has an extensive menu and is extremely comfortable. Generations have perfected the different types of namkeens and sweets which can be found on the menu, making it one of the best restaurants in Agra. Their paneer tikka and kulcha is a must-try.
My next stop was Kinari market, which is quite near the Agra fort. It is a busy, vibrant market which has countless shops, selling traditional handicrafts, jewellery, clothes, and shoes. I was enthralled by the delicate zardosi work and multi colored enamel jewellery on display. I bought a beautiful shawl, embroidered in gold and silver thread, and meenakari earrings that were straight out of a Mughal-era painting.
The next day, I decided to go to Fatehpur Sikri, the palace city built by Emperor Akbar. It is situated about an hour’s distance, by road from Agra.
Akbar had built Fatehpur Sikri on the very place where Shaikh Salim Chisti, a local Sufi saint had predicted the birth of Akbar’s son and heir. Akbar was soon blessed with a son, and he named him ‘Salim’, in honour of the Sufi saint. The palace city was abandoned soon after completion, possibly because of the lack of water or the shift in military alliances that no longer made it a viable capital. Lahore became the capital of the Mughal Empire for some time, before being shifted back to Agra. But Fatehpur Sikri still survives as a ghost town, with buildings in exquisite state of preservation.
I was particularly impressed by Panch mahal, a five storeyed palace. It marks the beginning of the women’s quarters, and is made up of four symmetrical storeys, tapering to form a single large domed chhatri. The women from the zenana, the women’s wing of the palace, could stand here, and enjoy the breeze without being seen by other people. There is also a large pachisi court here. Pachisi is an old Indian game. The royals would often use members of their entourage to pose as the pieces in the game, by dressing them up in different colours. Modern, smaller scale variants of this game include ludo and parcheesi.
Diwan-i-khas, the place where the emperor would confer with his advisors, is an amazing structure, topped with four chhatris. It is a plain building, but still eye-catching. The construction within Fatehpur Sikri is elegant. It is a medley of Persian and Indian influences, representing Akbar’s own syncretic beliefs. Though he was illiterate himself, it is believed that he possessed a large library with thousands of manuscripts.
I walked over to Jama Masjid. It was one of the first buildings constructed within the complex and it shows a mix of Persian and Indian architectural styles. A commemorative gate stands next to it. Buland Darwaza, meaning ‘strong gate’ is made of red and buff stone, and is impossibly large. Horseshoes have been nailed to its doors by the British due to superstitions.
I was assailed by a passionate longing to go back into history and see Fatehpur Sikri at its best – to watch Akbar striding through the ornate corridors, look at the hubbub of the court and play in the life-size pachisi court in Fatehpur Sikri.
Even as I bid Agra goodbye, I was looking forward to the next leg of my journey. Delhi and Agra were just two vertices on the golden triangle. As I packed my bags, bidding farewell to Fatehpur Sikri and Taj Mahal, I knew that Jaipur was calling.
[Image credits: Wikimedia commons]
