Ajanta and Ellora : History in stone

The sun was beating down on us as the driver parked the car.

“It’s hot,” my sister complained as we alighted and my mother threw her a long-suffering look. I had to concur with her on her statement. It was indeed very hot, but I was in no mood to rile my mother any further. I stuffed a floppy hat on my head, and walked a few steps when out of the blue, children came running and shoved the wares they were selling at me.

“Beads, madam? Necklace?” A particularly insistent boy said, and I capitulated. By the time I had finished my purchases, the state transport bus was nearly full and ready to leave. It would spirit us away to the caves, located some distance from the car park. No private vehicles are allowed beyond the parking lot to protect the caves as they have been declared a UNESCO world heritage site.

The bus rolled down a meandering road, flanked by tall trees and silence. The bus stopped abruptly, and we alighted; we were again greeted by eager guiders and hawkers. We engaged a guide and started off on the tour of Ajanta caves. I walked over to the railing and leaned, the sight took my breath away. Adorned with a green, dense canopy, the caves stood out in the mountains – large caverns in the face of dark rock. A small stream ran below, in the little valley, adding to the charm of the place.

We entered the first cave and I was entranced. I could hardly hear the chatter of the guide in my ear. I was overwhelmed by the vision in front of me. Elaborate carved figures decorated the walls and twelve pillars supported the ceiling. But it was the figure of Buddha that mesmerized me, eyes closed in meditation and his hands holding a mudra, which I was told, is called the dharma chakra pravartana mudra. The paintings on the walls were splendid, their colours still alive with memories of the past, telling stories of a time when life was different and wonderful. The two well-known paintings of the bodhisattva – Padmapani, who is believed to be holding a rose in his hand and Vajrapani, who is believed to be wielding a thunderbolt, were truly beautiful. Their form seem supple and graceful; their eyes in an unworldly trance that transcend the trappings of this earth.

Time is suspended at Ajanta. Situated near the city of Aurangabad, Ajanta is a group of caves, built between 2nd century BC and 5th century AD, in two phases. They contain fine pieces of Buddhist religious art, perhaps the finest in the country. Perhaps, once upon a time, these caves at Ajanta were possibly buddhist monastic buildings. In the first phase, the chaitya-grihas or the sanctuaries were built and in the second phase, around 20 cave temples were carved. After the end of the reign of Emperor Harishena, under whose patronage the second construction had been done, the caves were abandoned. As is the case with many jewels of Indian legacy, the jungle reclaimed the caves till a British officer stumbled upon them while hunting tigers. The Ajanta caves became famed for their paintings.

The Ellora caves are also located near Aurangabad. At Ellora, 24 caves have been cut out from the rock face of the mountains. Some of these caves are decidedly of Hindu characteristics; some are Jain and some Buddhists, exhibiting a religious harmony that is innate to India. Also designated as UNESCO world heritage monuments, the Ellora caves were built at the time the Ajanta caves were abandoned. One of the most stunning structures at Ellora is in Cave 16, a grand, monolithic Kailasa temple. It is the largest monolithic structure in the world, depicting the abode of Lord Shiva, Kailash parbat. Everywhere in Ellora, there are marvellous carvings of mythological figures, fluid, beautiful, and reposed in a language grace that belies their stone nature.

Ajanta and Ellora caves are easily accessible from Aurangabad. Aurangabad is a well-connected city with its own airport and has rail links with major cities in the country like Pune, Mumbai, Delhi etc. A car can be hired at Aurangabad to get to Ajanta and Ellora. State buses also relay between these places frequently. The city has many options for hotels. The Taj Residency, The Ambassador Ajanta, provide luxurious suites to make Aurangabad an ideal vacation destination. The Taj residency is located conveniently, near the airport. It is a palatial hotel, with dining options like the Garden Bar, the Garden cafe and the Residency. It also has a spa that offers various treatments. The Ambassador Ajanta incorporates the spirit of the Ajanta and Ellora caves in its architecture and designs. Antiques and paintings adorn the rooms at the resort, and we whole-heartedly recommend visiting/staying. It has a restaurant, swimming pool and offers recreational facilities for guests. MTDC has several resorts in Aurangabad. MTDC runs a holiday home at Fardapur, just 5 km from the Ajanta caves and a traveller’s lodge right at the entrance to the caves. These are good options for women who want to immerse themselves into the rich history and art of the caves.

The local cuisine of the city have Hyderabadi and Mughlai influences, but retain the taste of Marathwada, the region Aurangabad is located in. Being a stronghold of Mughals for many centuries, the city has absorbed the Mughal culture and food. Aurangabad is well known for many dishes, like naan quaila and tahari. The naan is bread made in a tandoor, while the quaila is a mouthwatering dish made of mutton, infused with a variety of spices. Tahari is a dish of meat and rice. It is similar to pulao or biryani in the types of ingredients used but differs in the method of preparation. It is fragrant and savoury, with succulent pieces of meat, and delightfully spiced rice. The food is tasty without being overly spicy and represents the true Deccani cuisine – a delightful medley of tastes, spices, and preferences from the Mughals, Hyderabad, Pune, and South India.

The best time to visit Ajanta and Ellora is after the summer has passed. The rains give life to the surroundings and there is great scenery around Ajanta and Ellora caves. There are many other places of attraction near Aurangabad. The Devgiri, a 12th century fortress was captured by Muhammad-bin-Tughluq and renamed Daulatabad. It passed around many hands till it fell into the hands of the Nizams of Hyderabad, who retained it till Independence. Bibi ka maqbara is a famous monument. Built by the son, of the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb, in memory of Aurangzeb’s wife, Rabia-ud-Durrani, it resembles the Taj Mahal and is often called the mini-Taj. Also close to the city is Lonar, one of the largest craters on the Earth. It was formed as a result of a meteorite. It has a lake with 12th and 13th century temples built on its periphery.

There are many traditional handicrafts and textiles for sale near Ajanta. The ethnic Himroo & Mishroo shawls are a must have. The exquisite Paithani sarees, which are woven in Paithan are an integral part of every Maharashtrian woman’s wardrobe and make for great keepsakes. Their silk and patterns are renowned all over the world. The local bidri pottery is an absolute must for art enthusiasts.

Ajanta and Ellora are the epitome of the ancient culture of India. In their caverns and their serenity, one can imagine the monks of yore milling about, deep in prayer and meditation. And in the paintings and carvings of Ajanta and Ellora, one can only hope to find a modicum of self-realization achieved by those monks. Keep an eye on The Wander Girls (TWG) upcoming trip section, for a trip to these beautiful caves.

 

[Image credits: Dubravko Modrusan, travel.india.com, wikitravel.com]