Cruising in Konkan
In the evenings, the tall coconut trees on the coast sway in the wind. At nights, the moonlight ripples on the sea, shimmering and dancing in a wild abandon. But it is the mornings that are the best – a sky of peaches and cream, deep blue sea, and the cold sand on the beach, which feels more exquisite under the feet than a Persian rug.Konkan is beyond compare in its beauty.
Despite being a frequent visitor of this narrow strip of land, hemmed in from the Arabian sea from one side, and the mighty Sahyadris from the other, I find myself enchanted each time I step foot into this land. It stretches from the bottom of Gujarat in the north, goes down the western coast of India, and finally meets Goa at the south. It is a verdant region, with rich red soil, which is fertile and fecund. Konkani is the native language of Konkan. It has a quaint history. It has a rich oral tradition, and a developing body of literature. It is sweet to the ear, and just like the Konkani people, it seems incapable of being harsh and dissonant.
Not much is known about the history of Konkan. In Skanda Purana, one of the ancient texts of the Hindus, Konkan is referred to as ‘Parshuram shristi’ or sapta-konkan. In comparatively recent history, Konkan became a Maratha stronghold with the rise of Shivaji Maharaj. There are various forts from this period that still stand tall and proud, and make for excellent day trips. The craggy mountains of Sahyadris were made for trekking! They are hardy and beautiful, and can accommodate anyone from the the greenest of trekkers, to the experienced ones. Raigad, the capital of Shivaji Maharaj lies in Konkan. Perched atop a mountain, it gives an excellent view of the region in all the directions. Its strategic location was probably why it was chosen as the capital. I am particularly fond of sea forts like Sindhudurg and Alibaug fort, which have guarded the west coast of India for centuries, and stand in the middle of the sea like stoic sentinels.
Rice is predominantly grown in Konkan. It is the staple food, and is converted into a variety of mouthwatering dishes. Cashews are also grown in Konkan. However, one of the best loved produce from Konkan is undoubtedly the mango. This beautiful, saffron coloured, yellow skinned sweet fruit is what ambrosia must taste like! Mangoes are cultivated on a large scale, for the domestic market, as well as the international market. Alphonso mango, the sweetest, richest kind of mango, which is better known as ‘hapoos’, is produced in Konkan.
Konkani cuisine is an interesting mix of styles be it Malvani, Goan, Mangalorean, or the Kokanastha brahmin style of cooking. Malvani cuisine is based on fish, one of the staples of the region, and is spicy and fragrant. Malvani fish curry is a celebrated dish, which is rich in flavour and is typical of Konkan region. Goan style cooking has been influenced by the Portuguese, who had converted it into a colony, but also has strong regional notes of toddy, a local palm brew, coconut and cashews. Mangalorean cuisine marries spices with fresh produce to create stunning dishes. The food cooked in Kokanastha brahmin kitchens is comparatively restrained, but not even an iota less delicious. Konkan has a special produce, known as ‘kokum’. It is a small red fruit. The dried form is used in cooking, and a tasty red drink, called as ‘kokum sherbet’ is also made from it. Another drink from Konkan is ‘sol kadhi’, a pink coloured drink made from coconut. One of the best loved dishes from Konkani cuisine is ‘modaks’. These are exquisite steamed dumplings, made from flour and stuffed with a sweet filling of coconut and jaggery. They are usually hot with a dollop of desi ghee, which melts on the modak and envelops it, enriching the experience of eating this delicacy.
Modaks are usually made during the Ganesh festival. Celebrated mostly in Maharashtra, the number of days – ranging from one and half to ten – of the festival varies according to specific customs of each family and community. It is a festival having a great historical significance. Though the tradition of celebration Ganesh utsav is ancient, it was largely restricted to the households. Lokmanya Tilak, a freedom fighter turned it into a social celebration, making it a platform for change and mobilised the people against the British. During Ganesh utsav, an idol of Ganesh is installed in the houses, and worshipped. Delicacies and sweet dishes, like modaks, are prepared. Diwali is also celebrated in the same, enthusiastic style.
Konkan has many stunning beaches, like Alibaug, Kashid, Tarkarli, and Ganpatipule. They are all relatively clean, and pristine. Some have been thoroughly explored by the tourists, but many sleepy beaches are still these for us to discover! At many beaches, you can go out into the sea, to see dolphins pirouetting with the waves. And you can also swim alongside them, as beach sports and adventure sports are available on many beaches.
Seeing the sunset, which lights the water on fire, and then watching the night sky, full of shimmering stars, is a magical experience in Konkan. Konkan is stuck somewhere between the glorious past and the present day. It is a quaint region, full of contentment and laughter, good food and better drinks. We will head off to Konkan’s various beaches in the next post, to the land of sunshine and joy, which is undoubtedly the crowning pearl of Maharashtra.
Image credits: Wikimedia commons, Harshmehta, indiatimes.com, rediff.com, secretofindia.com, wallpaperpassion.com, youtube.com
