How I got Leh – d
Bored with the humdrum of daily life, I wanted to do something new, different. Ideas about foreign and domestic destinations popped up, but while watching the Discovery channel, I saw a documentary on Ladakh that cemented my decision, to visit this land of high passes. Ladakh can be accessed by air or road. Flights to the Leh airport, one of the highest airports in the world, run from Delhi and some other airports. However, one of the drawbacks of flying into Leh is the lack of acclimatization. The high altitudes can often cause respiratory distress, which when added to the cold, can result in health complications. A better option is to drive into Ladakh, from Manali, which is easily accessible from Delhi. This road goes through majestic mountain passes of incomparable beauty. Perhaps the most stunning of these is Khardung La, one of the highest motorable roads in the world. It is exhilarating to go down this way, watching stillness of the landscape and feeling the cold mountain air nip your face. Don’t forget to grab a cup of piping hot tea, and a bowl of steaming maggi at the cafes on the road. Tea and Maggi are the staple food of tourists here. Of course, one of the specialities of the area is butter tea, or Tibetan tea, but it is an acquired taste. The highways almost always have little tent-cafes, which serve tea, maggi and a few other dishes. Though they look flimsy at best, they are quite resilient, just like the people of this region. I remember sitting in one of these tents, hearing the wind beat against the flaps, and entertaining a momentary fear that the wind would blow the tent right off its foundations. Fortunately, that did not happen and we continued our trip to Leh. The largest town in Ladakh is Leh, a charming, quaint place. It would be a mistake to consider that Leh is devoid of colours. The mountains change hues when illuminated by the sun, and are interesting against the unchanging blue backdrop of the sky. It is a photographer’s paradise!
The town of Leh itself is quite small, but it enjoys a diverse culture. The most imposing of all sights in Leh is the Palace. Over nine storeys high, it is modeled after the Potala Palace of Lhasa, Tibet. Built in the 17th century, it is currently in ruins, but is being painstakingly restored by the Archaeological Survey of India. One of the interesting sites in Leh is Shanti Stupa. A large, white structure, it holds the relics of Buddha. Though of relatively recent origin, the Stupa enjoys a stunning view of the surrounding areas, and depicts the life of Buddha.
Being one of the prime centres for Buddhism in India, there are a lot of monasteries around Leh. They are quite beautiful, with lines of ‘prayer wheels’ on their outer walls. The prayer wheels are in fact, wood and metal cylinders with prayers written on paper, enclosed inside. Each rotation of the wheel sends the prayer to Buddha. Most monasteries also have a rich collection of documents and other antiquities.
One of the oldest monasteries in Leh, built sometime in the 10th century is Lamayuru. Precariously perched, it overlooks the rushing Indus river. A complex of buildings of the monastery contains murals and paintings dedicated to Buddha, out which a few survive today. Another famous monastery near Leh is Hemis. Encircled by splendid mountains, Hemis is one of the most beautiful monasteries in Ladakh. Decorated by colourful prayer flags, which flutter in the mountain breeze, the monastery is a large, complex structure. It is richly adorned and painted, and hosts a large festival every year, in early July. After every 12 years, the monastery’s greatest treasure, a large thangka, or a religious icon painted on cloth, is ritually exhibited. Festivals are the best times to visit Ladakh. Stalls, selling delicious food and handicrafts line the streets and whole families participate in the festivals with great joy. The monasteries are often the centrepoint of the festivals. Singing and dancing adds a charm to the festive air, and the towns adorn themselves with colours.
If you are the adventurous sort, I would recommend white water rafting, on Zanskar river. There are rapids on the Zanskar river, about two hours away from Leh, which will give you an opportunity to tune in to your wild side. Trust us, the freezing water just adds to the adrenaline of the sport!
Leh is incomplete without a taste of the local cuisine. Though instant noodles form a large part of the diets of travellers, especially those on treks, the local dishes are amazing too. Thupka, a thick soup with vegetables is quite filling and delicious. An instant favourite are the momos – steamed dumplings stuffed with meat or vegetables. Try slathering some apricot jam on freshly baked bread, and you’ll feel like you’re in heaven. Apricots are one of the few produce grown in Leh, and are exceedingly tasty. You can pick up a couple of packets from the markets to take home.
There are a number of shops selling antiques in Leh, which are one of the specialties of the region. Look for prayer wheels, thangka paintings and buddhist masks. Ladakhi jewellery, made from turquoise and silver is exceedingly beautiful and is a must buy.
Ladakh is a place where humility comes naturally, where the might of nature is apparent and so is its beauty. I fell in love with Ladakh as we drove down its winding roads and as I crouched underneath tent flaps, clutching a warm cup of tea in my hands. I could live like forever, and if that didn’t happen, at least I could console myself that I had a few days more to make the most of my time in this beautiful arid place that called out to me.
Image credits: Wikimedia commons: Kondephy, Babasteve, Rayan Naqash, Avneesh Jain
