Sunshine and sea at Tarkarli

 

“What was that?” my sister asked, leaning over the edge of the boat. I kept a firm grasp on her arm. The shadowy shape in the water darted away, and disappeared under the waves.

She slumped, disappointed.

The sea was a perfect turquoise and the tassels on the awning of our boat fluttered in the breeze. The air was fresh and spicy and I could feel the sun beating down on my face. The waves slapped against the side of our boat as it rocked gently on the sea.

I was the first to see them. Some metres away from the boat, they broke from the sea, executing little arches, with glistening bodies and smiling snouts.

“Look,” I said, pointing at them.

“Dolphins!” she cried out happily and like little girls, we started giggling madly, waiting for those beautiful creatures to emerge and grin at us again. Our patience was rewarded, for a moment later, several dolphins leapt out of the sea, and danced with the waves.

The boat tour ended quite too soon, and we headed back to the pristine, white sand beach of Tarkarli.

Located on the Konkan coastline, Tarkarli is everything you can want in a beach getaway and more. With virgin white sands and clear, beautiful sea, Tarkarli is one of the most picturesque beaches in India. It stands at the confluence of the Karli river and the Arabian sea, about 8 km to the south of Malvan. The airport nearest to Tarkarli is Dabolim, in Goa. Alternatively, a Konkan rail can be taken till the Kudal railhead. Buses or taxis can take you to Malvan, from here a rickshaw can be hired. Tarkali enjoys beautiful climate all-round the year, but the best time to visit is from October to March. Tarkarli is an exquisite location for one to relax at, and hence holds great appeal for busy women who just long to unwind by the sea, without the commotion one finds at a populated beach.

The MTDC resort at Tarkarli offers a choice of cottages, surrounded by tall shuru trees. The property is located just a few feet from the beach, and has a lazy charm, with hammocks strung between trees and thatched huts. MTDC also offers houseboats at Tarkarli. These are anchored up the creek and provide a soothing backwaters experience. The houseboats cruise along the Karli river, giving a glimpse of real Konkan. There are many hotels, homestays and resorts in Tarkarli. The Sea View resort, Sagar Sangam, and The Blue Water resort are some other good options for a weekend sojourn.

Tarkarli is one of the few places in Maharashtra, where the fascinating underwater world can be explored by snorkelling. Devbaug sangam, Vengurla rocks, etc. have been identified as snorkelling sites, and there are many places in Tarkarli that conduct snorkeling sessions. Other water sports, like jet skiing, kayaking, banana rides, and water scooters are also available at Tarkarli. Girls who love adventure are guaranteed of a good time here.

Boat tours are conducted to Sindhudurg, the ancient fort built by Shivaji Maharaj near Malvan. One of the first sea forts of Maharashtra, Sindhudurg is a formidable fort. It takes you back in history, and you can almost see the Maratha armada gathering near the ramparts of the fort. It is said that there exists a secret tunnel from the Sindhudurg fort to a coastal village, but it has now been closed off. There are three sweet water wells in the fort. There is also a temple of Shivaji maharaj – the only one of its kind – in the Sindhudurg fort.

Other interesting places near Tarkarli include the Dolphin point, Devbaug, and the Tsunami island. The island was originally submerged under the sea, but rose after the tsunami in 2004. Water sports are conducted near this area.

Food in Tarkarli is distinctive in taste and character. The Malvani cuisine has a base of fresh seafood and spicy coconut based curries. For those who love seafood, staples like pomphret, prawns, and surmai will add a new dimension to their vacation, while Malvani specialities, like the Kombdi wada or shark curry will not disappoint. The dish made from jackfruit and konkani spices carries the trademark of Malvan. Sol kadhi, the cool coconut based drink of Konkan is a revelation to the urban palates and a pure gastronomical delight. In Malvan, Konkani spices, chutneys, and pastes are available in the markets. Fresh cashews, both peeled and unpeeled, are also available.

We took a leisurely trip down to Tarkarli, in summer, a few years ago. Though the journey involved two very unbearable hours in the back of a truck with heaps of bombil fish, the trip remains one of my favourites.

Travelling often challenges you to find your way out of difficult situations. And this is precisely what happened to us on this trip. After dawdling to the station at Kudal, we were horrified to discover that there were no buses to Malvan for the next few hours. The sun was already harsh, and we sat on our rucksacks, waiting for some divine intervention to whisk us away to Tarkarli, to the surf and the sea. A few of my friends started searching for private vehicles for hire, but to no avail. The respite came in the form of a small, portly man who had overheard our conundrum. He was going to Tarkarli, he said, and was more than happy to offer us a lift.

But there was one catch – or rather, there were heaps and mounds of ‘catch’, that did nothing to help my queasy stomach on the bumpy journey. We squatted in the truck next to some fisherwomen from the village. They looked strong and capable and were tanned from long hours of working under the sun. We bonded over our shared love and appreciation of the countryside, and they told us of places we could simply not afford to miss near Tarkarli. We reluctantly bid adieu to these generous women who freely shared their knowledge with us. It is charming how travelling opens up doors of friendship everywhere.

We checked into the MTDC resort, and spent the first day lounging on the beach. I curled up in a hammock the first afternoon with a book, and as the sun dipped in the sky, I saw it light the sea a fiery orange. Silver and gold speckles danced on the waves, till the sun disappeared, and darkness fell. I slept that night to the lullaby of the sea.

The next day, we took a ferry to see the dolphins near the confluence of the Karli river and the sea, and we were rewarded with sightings of the beautiful creatures. We toured the stunning fort of Sindhudurg, marvelling at the architectural prowess of the Marathas. I felt the stone walls, cold even under the blazing sun, and touched the imprint of Shivaji Maharaj’s palm in the stone of the fort. That night, we sat under the stars on the Tarkarli beach and ate spicy prawn rice and washed it all down with a giant tumbler of sol kadhi. Playing cards on the beach while singing raucous, bawdy songs, remains one of my favourite memories.

The next day we stuck to the beach, playing in the crystal blue waters. The day was fine, and the gentle slope of the waterbed was visible under the water. We played underneath the tall shuru trees and ate a hearty lunch of fried fish and the quintessential sol kadhi.

As the summer peaks this year again, I long for those rolling waves and azure skies. I am quite sure that if I can clear my schedule in the upcoming weeks, I will be dashing off to Tarkarli to swim in the blue waters, take long walks on the white beach, and end the day with hearty helpings of authentic Malvani fare of fish and sol kadhi. Tarkarli remains a perfect option for short getaways with its stunning beach and the sea.

[Image credits: bombaynomads.blogspot.com and konkanonline.com]