Discovering Delhi
I was in the majestic city of Delhi, the national capital, which has a long, rich historical and architectural heritage. I commenced my wanderings in Delhi by going to the old city – Shahjahanabad, which was founded by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan. The old city is replete with ancient monuments, notably the Red fort and Jama Masjid. It also has a variety of fascinating markets.
It was from the ramparts of the Red fort that the tricolour was hoisted on 15 August 1947, the day India became independent, by Jawaharlal Nehru, the first Prime Minister of India. The national flag is still hoisted on the ramparts of the Red fort, or Lal Quila, as it is popularly known, on Independence day. Though Lal Quila has the same story of decline as most Indian monuments, there is still a haunting grace in the remaining structures that it houses, which gives a testament to its former grandeur. Built by Shah Jahan, the great Mughal emperor who also commissioned Taj Mahal, the citadel is octagonal in shape and has strong fortifications. It is located in Shahjahanabad, the old part of the city.
The tourist pathway took us from Lahori gate to Chhatta Chowk, a market which once housed the most talented artisans in the Mughal Empire. People of all ages milled around us, some Indian, some foreigners. The path then wandered down to the different, notable places in the fort – Diwan-i-am, where the emperor would meet the general public to hear their grievances and Diwan-i-khas, where he would consult with his courtiers. It is said that once a peacock throne sat in the room, encrusted with precious gemstones, that was taken away by the Iranian Nadir Khan to his country. It is a glorious place, richly decorated with inlaid floral designs and gilded and painted ceilings. The famous verse of Amir Khusraw exclaiming ‘if there be a paradise on the earth, it is this, it is this, it is this,’ is inscribed here. We clicked photos excitedly, but the extent of the red fort’s elegance is such that I do not believe that its splendour can be captured solely by the camera. I soon stowed away the camera, eager to learn further about this wondrous monument from history. The red fort is a vast structure, whose beauty is an object of magnificence that appreciates as we explore it deeper. After exploring every possible corner of the fort, we eventually headed into Chandni Chowk.
Chandni chowk, the iconic marketplace of Delhi is located near the fort. It once had a sedate, tree lined canal and one of the busiest bazaars in the country. It is easy to get lost here, to be enchanted by the amazing variety of shops and goods on display. The wholesale market of Chandni chowk is full of clothing shops, electrical goods, and footwear stores. A unique thing about Chandni chowk is that all its stores are now online too! You can go to their official site to locate the different shops. There are also many famous confectioners and food stalls in Chandni chowk that you just cannot afford to miss, like Jalebi wala, Natraj’s dahi bhalle Gianiji ka Falooda, Ghantewala Halwai, Kanwarji Bhagirathmal Dalbhajiwallah which serves dal bhiju and aalu ka laccha.
The renowned Gali Paranthewali is located in the heart of Chandni chowk. One of the relics of the Mughal splendour, Gali Paranthewali is a mecca for vegetarians in Delhi. On offer is a mind-boggling variety of paranthas, with the stuffing ranging from the standard – potatoes, cauliflower and peas, to the adventurous – rabri and papad. The lassi is also quite delicious and perfectly complements the paranthas. If you are a connoisseur of this versatile dish, do not miss this legendary lane!
If you prefer succulent kebabs and delicious biryani, look no further than Karim’s. It is Delhi in its true avatar – gritty, hurried, and amazing. Karim’s is an institution, a must-visit for all visitors to Delhi. Tucked away in a lane near Jama Masjid, Karim’s is said to trace back its culinary heritage to the royal kitchens of the Mughal emperor, Bahadurshah Jafar. Don’t forget to try the jahangiri murg, mutton korma, and the sweet kheer.
After lunch, we walked over to the Jama Masjid. It is also located in the old city of Shahjahanabad. Founded by Shah Jahan, the city was capital of the Mughals till the decline of their empire. Shahjahanabad has moved ahead in time, but has not forgotten its past. It full of small winding lanes and narrow alleys, carved balustrades, and electric wires criss cross languidly, forming interesting designs high above the peoples’ heads .
The red and white mosque is India’s largest, and was also built by Shah Jahan. It overlooks the sprawling red fort to one side, and on the other, the teeming lanes of Delhi. Built in marble and sandstone, crowned with white domes, and etched with religious verses from the Koran; Jama Masjid is a beautiful piece of architecture. The emperor would stroll down here, to offer his prayers every Friday, like thousands still do today. In the month of Ramadan, the area around the mosque blossoms, with hundreds of stalls selling fresh and dry fruits, bottles of water, ‘chaddars’, incense, and keepsakes.
A few minutes away from the Masjid is Rajghat, the memorial to Mahatma Gandhi. Located on the banks of river Yamuna, Rajghat is essentially a large park. It has a square black marble platform in the centre, which marks Gandhiji’s memorial. An eternal flame burns on the top of the marble. Rajghat actually houses many other memorials of prominent political figures, including Jawaharlal Nehru, whose memorial is called Shantivan, and Indira Gandhi’s named as Shakti Sthal. The simplicity of all the memorials adds to their beauty, and the refinement of these memorials is a reflection of their great deeds.
As the day darkened, we made our way to Karol Bagh, one of Delhi’s prime markets. Full of bustle, blinking lights, multitude of voices talking and shouting – I found Karol Bagh to be a chaos. But it was charming. The area exudes liveliness and warmth, a passion for life. It is energetic – from the giant hoardings that all but obscured the sky to the various shops, with multi-coloured sarees on display. Roadside sellers hawk their wares merrily to passersby and various street food stalls concoct amazing dishes. It is Delhi’s premier market for wedding related shopping. There are a lot of jewelry stores in Karol Bagh, ranging from the modest shops to imported and designer brands. Gaffar market, in Karol Bagh also has varieties of imported goods. From cosmetics to shoes and cellphones to furniture, you’ll find everything here!
I was captivated by the grandeur of Delhi, the contrast between its wide, sweeping monuments and the narrow alleyways of the old city. I resolved to explore it further. Pulling out my pen, I scrawled an itinerary for the days ahead, in the twinkling lights of Karol Bagh. Yes tomorrow seemed promising, for there was so much more to explore.
