Discovering Delhi – III
Qutub Minar, the world’s tallest minaret, is located in Mehrauli, one of the seven villages that make up the city of Delhi. It is an impressive structure, made from red and buff stone, and decorated richly with inscriptions from the Koran. It was built over a large span of time, from 1193 to 1386. It was built to celebrate the Islamic dominance on Delhi by the viceroy of Muhammad Ghori, Qutb-ud-din Aybak. After his death, his successor, Iltutmish built the next three stories, but it was Firoz Shah, who ruled Delhi in the 14th century, who repaired and completed the minaret.
My earliest memories of this minaret are not of the carvings, height, or the fluted exterior. I remember Qutub minar from a black-and-white old song, where Dev Anand serenaded Nutan as they descended the steps of Qutub minar. Little known is the fact that the song was actually shot in a replica of the tower.
Qutub minar stands near the ruins of the first Indian mosque, Quwwat-ul-Islam. It is said to have been built from the ruins of Hindu and Jain temples, which is apparent from the Hindu symbols and motifs on the pillars of the courtyard of the mosque. Just near the main arch of the mosque stands a curious iron pillar. It is far older than the surrounding ruins. Historians put its origins in the 4th century. Despite centuries of braving the harsh Indian weather, the pillar does not have even a speck of rust on it. It has befuddled metallurgists for years. A popular myth says that it is good luck, if one could embrace the pillar with both hands when pressing one’s back against it. The practice was discouraged as many tourists began trying it out, leading to significant discolouration of the pillar.
After exploring the Qutub complex, I made my way to the Mehrauli archeological park. It is not far from Qutub Minar, but is relatively more peaceful. It is immense – over 200 acres and is criss crossed with walking trails and filled with open lawns. It houses over 200 ancient buildings from a span of almost 1000 years. Ancient ruins are juxtaposed against the clear blue sky at this park. With every step you take, you seem to go back in history, where these monuments would have been objects of glory and splendour. They still retain traces of their finery.
Thomas Metcalfe, an Englishman in love with everything Indian converted the tomb of Quli Khan, a foster brother of Akbar, into his residence. He called this ‘country house’, ‘Dilkhush’, meaning delight of the heart. He surrounded the house with beautiful English gardens, water features and even put in a boathouse. The house is now in ruins, but has been carefully protected by the Archeological society of India. His love for ancient architecture was unparalleled as evidenced by numerous ‘follies’, decorative buildings that have no purpose save aesthetic appeal, that dot the Mehrauli park. He built a pseudo-mughal ‘chhatri’, atop a small hill. Carpeted by green lawn, the chhatri is a remarkable picnic spot. Metcalfe also built two ziggurats, stepped pyramids that Mesopotamians built by putting stone slabs of successively receding size on top of each other. These ziggurats are today called as ‘gharganj’. One has been built using square slabs, while circular slabs have been used in the other.
In the park, is a stunning step well, that is a delight to explore. Rajon ki baoli has three stories and is believed to have been built by Daulat Khan in 1516. Though the well has now dried, the interior is still cool. It is refreshing to take a break in the baoli, or the step well. People would congregate here, in the old times, to escape from the oppressive heat, chat and play games.
Mehrauli Archeological park is populated by many such interesting spots. But there was one place, which called to me.
Located to the north of the Qutub Minar, is a curious octagonal structure. It is discoloured and desolate, but the history associated with this place is fascinating. Also known as ‘Bhul-Bhulaiya’, or the tomb of Adham Khan, the son of Emperor Akbar’s wet nurse. When Adham killed Akbar’s Prime Minister, Ataga Khan, Akbar had him thrown down from the parapet of Agra fort. Adham Khan’s mother, Maham Anga died of a broken heart and was buried alongside her son. A British officer converted the tomb into a personal residence. It was, for some time, also used as a police station, post office and a rest house, till Lord Curzon put a halt to it.
I meandered along, stopping at the roadside shacks. The contrast between the serenity of the Mehrauli Archeological park and busy roads was startling. I was eager to discover one of Delhi’s modern open space – Garden of five senses. Situated barely a few kilometres from the Qutub Complex, the garden is a modern marvel. It was crowded with people of all ages and looked very beautiful. There are many varieties of flowering plants, rare plants, modern art installations, and even an amphitheatre. The Garden promises to tempt every sense. Vibrant, colourful flowers, and green stretches of grass please the eyes; the fragrance of the flowers is an olfactory delight. Visitors can touch the rock formations and other installations, as the sound of waterfalls and bells provides soothing music. Different food and cultural festivals are held in the garden around the year. After a long day, I was understandably ravenous. Fio country and kitchen Bar, located near the first gate of the garden had come highly recommended. The rustic setting, with stone walls and open areas is beautiful and many cuisines are on offer. Don’t forget to try the scrumptious basilco bocconcini wood oven pizza, kurkuri mushroom dhingri and the mocktails.
Magique, near the third gate of the garden is also an excellent option. The restaurant makes clever use of outdoor and indoor spaces, making its ambience extraordinary. Magique’s signature Three Mushroom Khao Swey is a must-try.
I found this part of Delhi to be as enchanting as the elegant designs of Lutyens. The rich history is well preserved in South Delhi, making it an eclectic mix of Mughal, English and Indian heritage. Though the day was over, I was not done with Delhi. There was much left to explore. Sticking my nose into a guidebook is not the answer to the riddle that is Delhi, I realised as I strolled through the tranquil greenery of the Garden of five senses. Delhi is in its monuments, its foods and its people. As I watched the night fall over this beautiful city, I could hardly wait for the next day to know more about Delhi.
