Idyllic Goa
The elegant houses, Portuguese in style, are painted in bright colours – yellow, blue, pink, orange and claret. The sky above is an impossible blue, the air silent, languid, punctuated only by the tinny of an old radio, and the smell of baked bread. A lace curtain flutters in the fragrant wind, dancing to the tune of an unheard song. One could almost be in heaven.
Fontainhas, meaning ‘little fountain’, is one of the last vestiges of the Portuguese rule in India. It is located between the Altinho hill and the Ourem creek, in Panaji. The name of the area is derived from a fountain, Fonte Fenix, which is fed by underground springs at the bottom of the Altinho hill. A plaster phoenix and a coat of arms once adorned the fountain; it was destroyed during the liberation of Goa. Fontainhas still clings to its Lusitanian air, with its pretty houses and churches. It is a mix of tiny lanes, aging houses, beautiful streets, and quaint bylanes. Fontainhas is quite dramatic, but it has an old world charm that will not fail to enchant you. During the Portuguese rule, houses were supposed to be painted with colours other than white, since white was reserved for the churches. The result was a bright patchwork of colours, hues, and styles that have since come to define Fontainhas.
It is a welcome change from the beach scene that is usually equated with Goa, and displays a nostalgic side of this wonderful state. Fontainhas is not the extent of the Portuguese influence – the entire state is peppered with heritage buildings that are a joy to behold. Solar dos Colacos mansion, situated on the bank of the river Mandovi, is one such treasure. Another is the Braganza mansion in Chandor, which is considered to be the most magnificent house in the state. Mother-of-pearl shell windows, Italian marble flooring, antique vases, and a large private library are some of the best features of this house.
One of the well-known churches in Old Goa is the Basilica of Bom Jesus, where the remains of St Francis Xavier, a sixteenth century missionary are enshrined. The church is quite beautiful, with the main altar adorned richly in gold, depicting infant Jesus. The chapel and tomb of St Francis Xavier stands in the Church. Every year, for a week in December, his remains are displayed in a casket, and thousands line up for darshan and attend a mass in the square outside the church. The church of Mae de Deus is also renowned. Located near Panji, in Saligo, it is gothic in appearance, and is quite beautiful.
Similarly popular is the Mangeshi temple. Dedicated to Lord Mangesh, an incarnation of Shiva, it is a pretty structure. The shrine was shifted from its original place to the present location, in Mangeshi village, in the 16th century, after the arrival of the Portuguese. The current structure of the building was constructed during the Marathi reign. Built on a hilltop, it is surrounded by lush countryside, and is one of the finest examples of Goan workmanship. The legendary Mangeshkar family, many of whom are singers and composers of tremendous talent, hail from the village of Mangeshi.
Another celebrated temple in Goa is the Shantadurga temple. It is one of the most wonderful temples of India. Painted in red and white, it makes for a striking picture, against the verdant surroundings. A tall ‘deepastambha’, structure which houses oil lamps during festivals and important occasions, stands near the temple. Another Shiva temple stands at Tambdi Surla, a small village. It is the oldest temple in Goa, and quite possibly, one of the most beautiful. Located in a remote clearing at the foothills of the Western ghats, the temple has remained untouched by the destruction waged by invading Muslims and Portuguese zealots. Intricate carvings adorn its walls and pillars. Interrupted only by the pleasant babble of the Surla river, which flows nearby, the serenity of the Mahadev temple is one of its remarkable attributes.
Fort Aguada, a fort in Goa is one of the most famous historical sites in the state. It was built in the 17th century by the Portuguese to defend themselves against the Dutch and the Marathas. The fort is one of the finest and well preserved bastions of the Portuguese. It derives its name from a freshwater spring located within the fort, which would provide water to the passing ships. It is a strong, proud structure, and provides fantastic views of the Arabian sea and the beaches. The lighthouse, located inside the fort appears stark white against the rocky surfaces of the fort’s walls. The lighthouse was built in the middle of the 19th century, and was in use for many years. It was, however, made defunct in the last decades of the 20th century. Though it is no longer used as a lighthouse, it has served as a backdrop for many films, most prominently, the film ‘Dil Chahta Hai’.
Goa is one of India’s delightful treasures, whose history is rich and varied. Every trip to Goa throws up a delightful nuance of this small state – be it the long beaches, the lazy sea, warm sun, or the elegant Portuguese structures. In the next post, we will take a look at the modern life of Goa – from its crazy parties and the beach shacks to the music festivals that define the very spirit of Goa. So kick back, relax and raise a toast to Goa – the ultimate paradise!
Image credits: Wikimedia commons: Abhiomkar, Andean Condor, Anurag Jain, Ash Lin, Vipin8196, Yash1365in, Aruna Radhakrishnan
