Kashid: A trip to the beach

Hot summer days make all of us long for the beach. There’s this burning desire to let the cool water cleanse you of the perspiration dripping down your skin. A few feet away, the sea sparkled, glittered, and beckoned me. The beach at Kashid is soft, like a newborn’s tender skin, the kind where I could just sink in and watch the changing hues of the sky. It measures 3 kms, with two towering hillocks on either side. The fishermen from the village had gone back home after the morning catch; some boats still bobbed on the horizon.Mid-day, I was lazing in a hammock, cradling a book, as the wind stole in through the tall Casuarina groves that line the beach.

The smell of Konkani spices wafted from the kitchen. I reached for the coconut which the manager of our hotel graciously offered me, and sighed, “What a vacation!”

We had learnt about Kashid from a friend’s friend. He had impressed upon us the beauty of the beach and the pleasant countryside, and recommended the name of a homestay, run by his friend. “Best damn fish fry on the entire coast!” he’d boasted. We’d packed our bags as soon as the summer started and hit the roads. On Wednesday, we crossed the Western Ghats, stopping to eat at roadside eateries which were not much more than shacks with a kitchen. But the food was good, the music was better and the wind was in our hair- and nothing, not even the heat of the day could take that away from us. There are other options to reach Kashid than by car, like taking a catamaran from Mumbai till Mandwa and then hiring an autorickshaw, or a bus to Kashid. Kashid has numerous resorts and budget hotels. Some are close to the beach, while others perch on the hill opposite the beach. The resorts on the hill are heavenly in summer as the salty breeze comes in from the sea, dancing with the palms and the casuarina trees, offering some respite from the heat.

Kashid appeared just like any other Konkani village on first glance – hiding in the shade of coconut and betel nut trees, and the smell of fish in the air. Rangolis decorated the front porch of every house and lamps twinkled merrily in the evenings in the tulsi vrindavans. But it is undoubtedly Konkan’s best kept secret.

Our cottage was a few feet from the sea. The dining area of the homestay had a ceiling of fishnets and a floor of the finest sand on the coast. Hammocks were strung between the trees, almost inviting us to strum a guitar and burst into an impromptu song. Our lack of musical sensibilities however meant that that we put them to more pedestrian uses – by sleeping in them and rifling through magazines in the afternoons. Feasting on surmai, pomfret, tall tumblers of sol kadhi, and huge modaks with ghee; mealtimes were bliss.

We spent our days in a fairly predictable manner. In the mornings, we played in the cool water. As the sun rose, we took trips to places nearby – Alibaug fort, Birla temple and the Janjira fort. Alibaug fort, or Kulaba fort is located in the sea, near the Alibaug beach. The beach is long with tough, dark sand. It was thronged by people playing in the water and eating roasted corn on the cob. But most, like us, were waiting for the low tide. The distance from the beach to the fort, hardly a kilometer can be accessed on foot or in a tonga in the low tide, but boats can also deposit tourists to the fort in high tide. Birla temple is situated 3 km from Kashid, atop a small hill. It was built by Vikram Ispat, a part of the Birla Udyog group. Built in white marble, the temple has lots of bells suspended from the ceiling that chime in the wind, giving it a heavenly feel. I secretly expected apsaras to make an impromptu appearance and dance to the melody of the chiming bells. The gardens around the temple are beautifully manicured, adding to its charm. Janjira fort is located off the coast near Murud, a small port town. It can be accessed by boats. Originally built in the 15th century by a local chieftain, the fort has passed hands many times and has been strengthened and enlarged by the rulers of the fort. The bastions and the ramparts of the fort are still intact and the fort is an excellent place for a day visit.

On Saturday, we awoke to the faint thrum of music and voices. The beach, almost deserted the entire week was crowded with people. There were all kinds of watersports on offer – banana rides, water scooters and even surfing. There were motorbikes and dune buggies for rides along the beach. Kashid had acquired a festive air over the weekend. There were always people about, milling on the beach and playing in the sea. The quiet beach had come alive!

On Monday, we woke to find the people gone and the beach deserted once more. The only sign of the revelers were stray bits of plastics, lost shoes, and forgotten scarves. A chat with the manager revealed that many people come down from Mumbai for the weekend, to enjoy the beach and the sun. Thus, the watersports are generally available only on weekends, when the volume of tourists is high.

We completed a full week and departed on Wednesday, taking leave of Kashid, its beautiful beach and white sand. Going through the photographs of the trip, I realised that Konkan lives in my heart. I have been there many times, and each time a new facet reveals itself. Konkan, with its tall, swaying trees, enigmatic, taciturn people, sweet mangoes and sweeter rice puddings cannot fail to charm! I see the dusty red soil in every story I hear, I smell the sea in each anecdote, and I wiggle my feet to find the soft, powdery sand beneath. Kashid is a heartbeat away from Mumbai and Pune, and a must visit destination for those seeking to understand Konkan life away from metropolis cities.

 

[Image credits: Ashit Desai , Clyde Dsouza and Sumesh Jaiswal]