Being a Pune-kar – II

The first part of this post can be found here.“No!” my friend wailed as she read the newspapers, “Manneys is closing down!”

“What?” I thundered, leaning over to snatch the newspaper from her. There were similar groans of disappointment in our general vicinity as the news spread. Sadness could not even cover the depth of emotions that I felt. The year 2012 was apocalyptic for book lovers in Pune.

Manneys, one of Pune’s most beloved book shops closed down its shutters. Located in Koregaon Park, the shop was an institution, a mecca for bibliophiles. The tantalizing smell of new books and the solicitous employees made this store one of its kind in the city. I would spend long afternoons at Manneys, browsing through the eclectic stack of books, looking at the new titles and finishing off the trip with a visit to Marz-o-rin. Manneys had an old world charm that simply cannot be found in chain stores. These days, instead of moping around, I just drag myself to the International book house and the Popular book store. They are of the same ilk as Manneys and in the rows of their bookshelves, I don’t miss Manneys anymore.

Though Koregaon park lost Manneys there are several other places of interest in this suburb. The internationally renowned Osho Ashram is situated in KP. It is a beautiful spiritual retreat, particularly for yoga and meditation. The Nullah park of the Ashram is a stunning park in Zen style, with stone bridges, benches and bamboos. Most Punekars view Osho ashram with a mix of curiosity and scepticism, but the allure of the Nullah park is undeniable. One of the most creative offshoots of this park is the Osho chappals. Initially marketed only in Koregaon park, these soon caught fancy of the rest of the city and now are a part of every Puneri girl’s shoe closet. With their jute layered soles, vibrant straps, and extremely low prices they are a favourite with everyone. I own five pairs, I kid you not – blue, pink, green, and two black pairs. Their USP lies in their price – Rs. 50 and not a paisa more and they last for a season or more. What more could a girl want?

German bakery, one of the landmarks of the city is also located in KP, just across the road from the Osho Ashram. It was closed after the blasts in 2010, but it has recently reopened under a new management, with an extended menu. The rustic tables of the old cafe have now made way for swanky, upgraded seating. Thankfully, I have heard that the chai, omelettes, and pastries are still delicious. I have not been to the new cafe yet, but I plan to go soon. Dorabjee’s, located near Camp is also a foodie’s paradise. Almost anything related to food can be found here – cold cuts, rare spices, ground coffee, and gourmet cheeses. Pune’s first superstore, Dorabjee’s & Co. was started in 1911, and since then, it has been an enormous success. The sheer variety of products and produce on sale is mind-boggling. I am a great fan of the brownies and the array of cornflakes that are sold here.

While talking about food, how can I fail to mention Vaishali, the iconic restaurant of Fergusson College road? Generations of Fergussonians have graced this restaurant, and now, we continue this tradition. Vaishali has amazing South Indian food. It is the kind of restaurant where you go with friends to giggle over inanities and nobody gives you a second look. Vaishali’s ancestor is Cafe Goodluck, also located on FC road; it looks down at patrons with a kindly gaze. The Iranian cafe is a hit with members of all ages, and when the money dwindles at the end of the month, I can be found here, drinking tea and tucking into chocolate mousse.

It is not only food that Pune is gaga over. Pune continues its love for everything gastronomic with its first microbrewery – Doolally. Beer is brewed the old-fashioned way here, in small quantities, and retains its true taste by giving all the additives and chemicals a miss. Situated in Kondhwa, the microbrewery is gaining foot in the market and hosts ‘beer olympics’ annually. I cannot wait to turn 21 so I may sample the beer at Doolally!

Being a complete foodie, I also love kanda bhaji or onion pakoras. And kanda bhaji tastes nowhere as savoury as it does at Sinhagad. After Shivaji’s trusted general, Tanaji Malusare laid down his life, while attempting to recapture the fort; Kondhana, as it was earlier known, was renamed in his honour as Sinhagad, or the ‘Fort of the lion’. The trek to the fort is neither arduous nor easy. There is also a road that leads to the top of the fort for vehicles. Sinhagad remains Punekars’ most favourite trekking destination. In the rains, the fort takes on a green mantle and shrouded in mist, it becomes a nature lover’s delight. Pithla, bhakri and kanda bhaji are prepared by the localites at the fort and the meal is washed down with large tumblers of buttermilk and earthen pots of yoghurt. Sinhagad occupies an important place in the general consciousness of Punekars. It is a backdrop for movies, stories, love affairs and trips. With its strong stone ramparts, it is a testament to the resilience of the city.

It is not only Sinhagad, however, that enchants us Punekars. Pune is surrounded by hills, and for many, Sunday mornings are spent in a leisurely walk on these hills. Be it Chatushringi or Parvati, which have temples on the top, or other hills like Waghjai, Taljai, Vetal tekdi; hills are an obsession with Punekars. The love of open spaces does not end there. One of the most famous parks in Pune is Saras baug. A large park full of green rolling lawns and trees, Saras baug is quite possibly one of the oldest parks in Pune. It stands where once a lake was. A Ganpati temple was constructed in the middle of this lake by the Peshwas in 1750, and is popularly known as the ‘Talyatla Ganpati’ or ‘Ganpati in the lake’. I am a great fan of this park. I still carry stale bread for the variety of fishes in the pond, that surrounds the temple, and buy balloons from the hawkers outside the park.

One of the recently constructed parks in the city is the P .L. Deshpande Udyan or the Pune-Okayama friendship garden. Taking inspiration from the Kōraku-en garden of the Japanese city of Okayama, this garden is now quite famous in the city. It has flowing streams, wooden bridges and an artificial lake. There are bright orange koi fish in the pond, which add to the Japanese character of the garden. Idyllic evenings spent in this garden, with good friends for company, make up some of my fondest memories. Once I accidentally pushed my sister into the stream; the tongue-lashing received from the guards, could not make up for the sight of her, rising out of the water, sopping wet and nearly sobbing.

The Empress Garden, situated near the Pune race course is a historically and nationally acclaimed botanical garden. Populated by tall, towering trees and lush lawns, Empress Garden makes for a perfect picnic spot. I love the serenity of this park, with its lapping stream and thick carpet of grass. I never miss the annual flower show hosted by the Garden.

Another famous landmark of Pune is the National Defence Academy or the NDA. Located outside the city near the Khadakwasla lake, the NDA has a huge campus. It trains cadets of the air force, army, and navy. I would be remiss indeed if I fail to mention how pertinent the NDA proves to the city – or more specifically to the girls in the city. I will candidly state that there is something irresistible about a man in a uniform. NDA ball is one of the most awaited events on the social calendar of the city, and the invitations are highly coveted. Auditions are held at various locations for entry, and invitations are acquired by hook or crook. The cadets of the NDA have Sundays off, and FC road and MG road become the places to be at on these days. I will not deny that I have been a part of these ‘parades’ – more as an accessory than a serious contender, maybe, but I have enjoyed them all the same.

Pune is, and will remain, my first love. I am in love with the rambling streets, the hole-in-the-wall eateries, the caustic brand of humour, the puneri pagdi (turban) and the bhikbali, an earring worn by men. Being a Punekar, I am supposed to have an unwavering, burning pride in something, and for me, it is Pune.

[Image credits:Sudhir, Himanshu Sarpotdar, burrp.com, wikitravel.com]